This Week in London – Royal garments; Victor Hugo’s drawings; and, British Black music…

Yeoman Warders at the Tower of London. PICTURE: David Adams

Almost 200 garments from the Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection are able to be explored online thanks to a new collaboration between Historic Royal Palaces, which looks after six royal palaces including Hampton Court Palace and the Tower of London, and Google Arts & Culture. Drawing on ultra-high-resolution photography and 3D scanning, the garments – which include everything from ceremonial uniforms such as those worn by Yeoman Warders and a rare Bristow hat which may have been worn by King Henry VIII to Queen Victoria’s silk shoes, a waistcoat worn by King George III and a dress worn by the future Queen Elizabeth II in 1927 when she was just 18-months-old – can now be viewed in unprecedented detail (a billion pixels per image) without the risk of the damage which can occur thanks to light, humidity, and handling. The Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection comprises over 10,000 pieces of historic dress and related materials spanning the period from the 16th century to the present day and features garments worn by monarchs and key historical figures, including, as well as the aforementioned, Prince Albert, Princess Margaret, and Diana, Princess of Wales. To see the items, head to goo.gle/royalwardrobe.

Author, politician and artist Victor Hugo’s rarely seen works on paper have gone on show at the Royal Academy of Arts. Astonishing Things: The Drawings of Victor Hugo features around 70 works drawn from European collections and follows his preoccupation with drawing from early caricatures and travel drawings to later landscapes and abstract works. Arranged across four sections, the works on show include everything from Mushroom (1850) – which depicts a giant anthropomorphic toadstool, some of his many works depicting castles such as The cheerful castle (c 1847), and drawings that Hugo created in tandem with writing his 1866 novel The Toilers of the Sea, set in Guernsey in the years following the Napoleonic Wars, as well some relating to his most famous work, Les Misérables. The exhibition, being held in the Jillian and Arthur M Sackler Wing of Galleries, can be seen until 19th June. Admission charge applies. For more, see royalacademy.org.uk.

A “ground-breaking” exhibition showing the outsized impact British Black music has had on the world stage over the past 100 years has opened at the Barbican Music Library. Black Sound London highlights artists who created their own platforms, audiences, and spaces, often without mainstream support and spans genres including jazz, lovers’ rock, jungle, grime, and drill. Among the objects on show are vintage mixtapes, iconic magazine covers, and fly-posted walls. Runs until 19th July. For more, see www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/services/libraries/barbican-music-library.

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London pub signs – The Ship Tavern, Holborn…

This Holborn pub apparently has a history dating back to 1549.

It is believed to have been established to cater to farm labourers working in nearby Lincoln’s Inn Fields.

PICTURE: Edwardx (licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0)

Its name, however, is said to be related to its proximity to the now-underground River Fleet which runs through Holborn and linked the area with the River Thames. It’s said that the pub’s clientele soon included dock workers and that it may have even had connections to smuggling and pirates. It was apparently these connections that gave the pub the name it still has today.

These days tucked down a narrow alleyway at 12 Gate Street in a building dating from 1923 (apparently considerably bigger than the original), the pub, which features wood panelled walls and leaded windows, has a storied history.

Having been established during the reign of King Edward VI, the pub is known to have provided a space for banned Catholic worship (complete with spotters to warn if officials were seen in the area and hiding places for the priests should the officials decide to raid the premises).

Indeed, the pub would have also served those who attended executions of Catholics such as Robert Morton and Hugh More who were executed in 1588 in the nearby Lincoln’s Inn Fields (other executions there included that of Anthony Babington, executed in 1586 after being convicted of plotting against Queen Elizabeth I, and Lord Russell, executed in 1683 for his involvement in the Rye House Plot).

Other clientele, meanwhile, may have come from the nearby thoroughfare of Whetstone Park which was once notorious for gambling houses and other illicit behaviours.

The Ship also has Freemason connections, being officially consecrated as a Masonic Lodge in 1736 by the then-Grand Master, the Earl of Antrim.

Famous figures said to have been associated with this pub include Richard “Trusty Dick” Penderell, who aided Charles I’s escape after the Battle of Worcester in September, 1651, the antiquarian John Bagford, the French diplomat and spy Chevalier d’Eon who lived both as a man and, later in life, as a woman, and John Smeaton, the builder of a lighthouse once located at Eddystone in Cornwell. It’s even been suggested Shakespeare visited.

There’s also said to be a number supernatural clients at the pub with mysterious figures seen sitting at tables and glasses being moved around (it’s been suggested some of these relate to the persecution of Catholics on the site).

For more, visit theshiptavern.co.uk.

10 London mysteries – 6. The disappearance of Edward V and his brother Richard…

The disappearance of King Edward V and his brother, Richard, Duke of York, after being last seen in the Tower of London is one of London’s most famous mysteries. And while it’s one we’ve written about before, we thought we’d take a look at the recent announcement that new evidence had been found in the matter.

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London Explained – Red phone boxes…

Red phone boxes in Covent Garden in 2017. PICTURE: Nick Fewings/Unsplash

They’re one of the most iconic and enduring symbols of London – the once ubiquitous red phone boxes. But what are their origins and how did they come to be red?

The phone boxes went through several iterations with the first standardised kiosk to house public telephones – a concrete box appropriately designated K1 – introduced by the General Post Office, manager of the telephone network, in 1921. It was usually painted cream with a red door.

The classically-styled domed kiosk known as K2 followed in 1924 after a design competition which was won by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott (the wooden prototype can still be found under the gateway entrance into the Royal Academy of the Arts in Piccadilly).

These were subsequently produced in cast iron and while Scott had apparently suggested they be painted silver with a green-blue interior, they were painted red. The Post Office’s pillar boxes were already painted this colour which was thought to be good for visibility, so it followed the colour could be used for phone boxes as well.

The K3, made of reinforced concrete and again designed by Scott, was introduced in 1929. Various other iterations were also produced including the K6 which Scott designed to commemorate the Silver Jubilee of King George VI (it was the most in-use across the UK).

New designs continued to be rolled out in the ensuing decades and appeared in a range of colours.

The number of BT-operated telephone boxes in the UK is, according to BT, said to have peaked at about 92,000 in 1992.

While many of the traditional boxes have disappeared, some have been converted for other uses – everything from mini libraries and art galleries to housing defibrillators – and BT continues to sell them, both to communities and private buyers.

While call volumes from public phone boxes have continued to decline in recent years, it was reported that about five million calls were made in the year to May, 2020, illustrating the ongoing need for some to remain.

Lost London – Richmond Lodge…

Located close to the River Thames, Richmond Lodge was a royal hunting lodge before becoming a favoured residence for Hanoverian royals for several decades in the 18th century.

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This Week in London – One of the world’s most valuable watches at Science Museum; medieval silk bag (with a story) goes on show at Westminster Abbey; and, new electric bus display at London Transport Museum…

The ‘Marie Antoinette’ perpetuelle, Breguet, No 160, Paris, 1783-1820
© The Museum for Islamic Art, Jerusalem

One of the world’s most valuable watches – the No 160 watch which Abraham-Louis Breguet designed for Marie Antoinette but which wasn’t completed until the 1820s, well after her death – is the star of the show at the Science Museum’s new exhibition Versailles: Science and Splendour. Opening today, the exhibition, created in partnership with the Palace of Versailles, takes visitors on “a 120-year journey through the evolution of science at Versailles” and explores how Louis XIV, Louis XV and Louis XVI encouraged the pursuit of scientific knowledge and harnessed that knowledge as a tool of power. More than 100 objects are on display and, along with Breguet’s watch, they include Louis XV’s rhinoceros, a detailed map of the moon by Jean-Dominique Cassini, and Claude-Siméon Passemant’s Clock of the Creation of the World (1754). The watch, meanwhile, has its own fascinating history, including two decades in which its whereabouts were unknown after it was stolen in 1983 (in fact, its display in this exhibition marks the first time the timepiece has travelled abroad since its safe return to the LA Mayer Museum for Islamic Art in 2008). Runs until 21st April. Admission charge applies. For more, see sciencemuseum.org.uk/see-and-do/versailles.

• A medieval silk seal bag, which dates from the reign of King Henry III, has gone on public display for the first time in the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries at Westminster Abbey. The display follows the discovery by scholars that the bag’s material is a perfect match to the silk cloth used to wrap the remains of the Emperor Charlemagne when he was buried in Germany’s Aachen Cathedral (Charlemagne, seen as the first Holy Roman Emperor, died in 814 but was re-buried in the karlsschrein (Charles’s shrine) at Aachen in 1215). The bag at the abbey contains a wax seal, the Great Seal of King Henry III, which was attached to an inventory of the jewels and precious items on Edward the Confessor’s shrine located in the heart of the abbey. It was drawn up in 1267 when Henry III was in financial difficulties and forced to pawn items from the shrine to Italian merchants to raise funds (it is believed the items were all returned within 18 months). The silk used for Charlemagne’s shroud is believed to have been spun in the 12th century in Spain or the eastern Mediterranean and, while the small piece at the Abbey originates from a separate silk, it is understood that it would have been produced by the same weavers on the same loom. The bag can been seen until Easter next year. Admission charge applies. For more, see www.westminster-abbey.org/visit-us/plan-your-visit/the-queens-diamond-jubilee-galleries/.

A new interactive electric bus display has opened at the London Transport Museum in Covent Garden. The Wrightbus Electroliner display – which has been provided by Transport UK London Bus – is based on an electric vehicle bus type which has been part of the fleet of buses operating in London since 2023. The new display features the front of the bus and includes an interactive driver cab and passenger space. Admission charge applies. For more, see www.ltmuseum.co.uk.

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10 London mysteries – 4. How did King Henry VI die?

The Tower of London is known for many mysteries – the most famous, perhaps, being the fate of the two ‘Princes in the Tower’. But among the other mysterious deaths which took place behind the closed doors of the fortress is the death of the deposed King Henry VI.

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LondonLife – Remembrance Sunday…

Some 10,000 people lined Whitehall to watch the The Royal British Legion’s Veterans Parade and take part in the annual two-minute silence at the Cenotaph on Sunday…

Chelsea Pensioners march past the Cenotaph during the National Service of Remembrance. PICTURE: Sgt Donald C Todd/UK MOD © Crown copyright 2024
King Charles III leads the Royal Party during the National Service of Remembrance. PICTURE: Sgt Donald C Todd/UK MOD © Crown copyright 2024
King Charles III salutes after laying a wreath at the Cenotaph during the National Service of Remembrance. PICTURE: Sgt Jimmy Wise//UK MOD © Crown copyright 2024
The King’s Troop Royal Horse Artillery fired a Minute Gun from Horse Guards Parade at 11am to begin the Two Minute Silence. They then fired a second gun to mark its conclusion. PICTURE: Cpl Tim Hammond/UK MOD © Crown copyright 2024
Wreaths at the foot of the Cenotaph after the National Service of Remembrance. PICTURE: Sgt Donald C Todd/UK MOD © Crown copyright 2024

10 towers with a history in London – 10. The ‘Lollard’s Tower’, Lambeth Palace…

This 15th century tower can be found at the north-west corner of Lambeth Palace, London residence of the Archbishop of Canterbury.

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This Week in London – Dick Whittington explored at the Guildhall Library; Francis Bacon’s portraits; and, the 60th Photographer of the Year competition…

PICTURE: Courtesy of the City of London Corporation

A new exhibition exploring the life of one of the City of London’s most famous Lord Mayors has opened at the City of London’s Guildhall Library. Marking the library’s 600th anniversary, Whittington, the Man, the Myth and the Cat uses chapbooks (small printed booklets used for street literature in early modern Europe), children’s books, and works relating to pantomimes, to investigate Whittington’s story (including the question of whether or not he owned a cat). The exhibition details Whittington’s “rags to riches” tale and the many myths that later grew up around him, revealing information about his many loans to to kings (Richard II, Henry IV and Henry V), how he was three times Lord Mayor of London (1397, 1406 and 1419) and how he paid for the building of public lavatories at St Martin Vintry and a refuge for unmarried mothers at St Thomas’ Hospital as well as the rebuilding of Newgate Prison, and the establishment of the first library at Guildhall. Addressing the myth of the Whittington’s cat, it explains how it may have come about as a result of a play on words – ‘cat’ (or cattes) being a word used to describe a fleet of boats used for importing and exporting which was a mistranslation of the French word, ‘achat’, for trade. The exhibition, which runs until April next year, is free to visit. For more, see www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/services/libraries/guildhall-library.

The first exhibition in almost 20 years to focus on Francis Bacon’s portraits opened at the National Portrait Gallery, off Trafalgar Square, this week. Francis Bacon: Human Presence charts the artist’s career through 50 of his works arranged in five sections – ‘Portraits Emerge’, ‘Beyond Appearance’, ‘Painting from the Masters’, ‘Self Portraits’, and ‘Friends and Lovers’. Works on show include self-portraits as well as Head VI (1949), Study for a Pope I (1961), Three Studies for a Portrait of Isabel Rawsthorne (1965) and Portrait of a Man Walking Down Steps (1972). The exhibition also includes photographic portraits and film of Bacon by some of the century’s leading photographers, including Cecil Beaton, Arnold Newman, and Bill Brandt. Can be seen until 19th January. Admission charge applies. For more, see www.npg.org.uk.

‘The Swarm of Life’ by Shane Gross, Canada, winner of the 60th Wildlife Photographer of the Year competition.

A Canadian marine conservation photojournalist, Shane Gross, has won this year’s Wildlife Photographer of the Year competition for an image capturing the magical underwater world of western toad tadpoles. The Swarm of Life is among 100 prize-winning images which are going on show at the Natural History Museum in South Kensington from tomorrow as it celebrates the 60th year of its Photographer of the Year competition. This year’s contest attracted a record-breaking 59,228 entries from 117 countries and territories. Among the other images on display are German Alexis Tinker-Tsavalas’ Life Under Dead Wood  depicting the fruiting bodies of slime mould with a tiny springtail (Tinker-Tsavalas won Young Wildlife Photographer of the Year). Wildlife Photographer of the Year is developed and produced by the Natural History Museum, London. The exhibition runs until 29th June. Admission charge applies. For more, see www.nhm.ac.uk/wpy.

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10 towers with a history in London – 8. The Bell Tower…

We return to the Tower of London this week to look at the history of another of its storied towers.

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10 towers with a history in London – 5. St Augustine’s Tower, Hackney…

This tower – said to be the oldest building in Hackney – is all that remains of a 16th century church and, as a local symbol, appears on the London Borough of Hackney’s coat-of-arms.

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10 towers with a history in London – 3. Victoria Tower…

Located at the south-western end of the Houses of Parliament, the rather grand Victoria Tower was built as part of Sir Charles Barry’s 19th century redevelopment of the site in the Gothic Perpendicular style.

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10 towers with a history in London – 1. The Bloody Tower…

The Bloody Tower (centre, with the gateway) at the Tower of London. PICTURE: David Adams

Carrying rather a gruesome name, this rectangular-shaped tower sits over a gate leading from outer ward into the inner ward in the Tower of London.

The tower, which once controlled the watergate before the outer walls were constructed, was originally known as the Garden Tower due to its location adjoining the Tower Lieutenant’s Garden.

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LondonLife – Scenes from the State Opening of Parliament…

Last Wednesday, 17th July, was the State Opening of Parliament, the first since the new Labour government took office. More than 1,100 members of the armed forces were in attendance, accompanied by 200 military horses, as the procession of King Charles III and Queen Camilla made its way to the Houses of Parliament where the King delivered a speech outlining the government’s plans.

King Charles III is escorted by The Sovereign’s Escort of The Household Cavalry Mounted Regiment through Horse Guards Tilt Yard as part of the State Opening of Parliament parade. PICTURE: Petty Officer Joel Rouse/UK MOD © Crown copyright 2024
King Charles III, and Queen Camilla, escorted by The Sovereign’s Escort of The Household Cavalry Mounted Regiment. PICTURE: Corporal Nanda Atherton/© MoD Crown Copyright 2024

The procession travels past the Houses of Parliament to the Sovereign’s Entrance. PICTURE: Sergeant Rob Kane/© MoD Crown Copyright 2024
Heralds, Black Rod, the Lord Speaker, Lord Chancellor and leaders of the House of Lords and Commons are among those proceeding through the Royal Gallery ahead of King Charles III and Queen Camilla. PICTURE: Copyright House of Lords 2024/Photography by Roger Harris © (licensed under CC BY-NC-ND-2.0)
King Charles III delivers the King’s Speech from the throne, written by the government, during the State Opening of Parliament. PICTURE: Copyright House of Lords 2024/Photography by Roger Harris © (licensed under CC BY-NC-ND-2.0)
Members of the the Army’s oldest regiment, The Honourable Artillery Company at the Tower of London firing a 41-gun signal salute. A further 62-round celebratory gun salute sounded to mark the 77th birthday of Her Majesty Queen Camilla. PICTURE: Cpl Danielle Dawson/UK MOD © Crown copyright 2024.

What’s in a name?…Nunhead…

This district of London, which lies to the south-east of Peckham in the London Borough of Southwark, is believed to owe its name to a local tavern named, you guessed it, the Nun’s Head on the linear Nunhead Green (there’s still a pub there, called The Old Nun’s Head, in a building dating from 1905).

The Old Nun’s Head near Nunhead Green. PICTURE: Google Maps

There may well have been actual nuns here (from which the tavern took its name) – it’s suggested that there was a nunnery here which may have been connected to the Augustinian Priory of St John the Baptist founded in the 12th century at Holywell (in what is now Shoreditch).

A local legend gets more specific. It says that when the nunnery was dissolved during the Dissolution, the Mother Superior was executed for her opposition to King Henry VIII’s policies and her head was placed in a spike on the site near the green where the inn was built.

While the use of the name for the area goes back to at least the 16th century, the area remained something of a rural idyll until the 1840s when the Nunhead Cemetery, one of the “Magnificent Seven” cemeteries of Victorian London, was laid out and the area began to urbanise.

The chapel at Nunhead Cemetery. PICTURE: Owen Barritt (licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0)

A fireworks manufactory – Brocks Fireworks – was built here in 1868 (evidenced by the current pub, The Pyrotechnists Arms). The railway arrived in 1871.

St Antholin’s Church was built in 1877 using funds from the sale of the City of London church, St Antholin’s, Budge Row, which was demolished in 1875. St Antholin’s in Nunhead was destroyed during the Blitz and later rebuilt and renamed St Antony’s (the building is now a Pentecostal church while the Anglican parish has been united with that of St Silas).

There’s also a Dickens connection – he rented a property known as Windsor Lodge for his long-term mistress, actress Ellen Ternan, at 31 Lindon Grove and frequently visited her there (in fact, it has even been claimed that he died at the property and his body was subsequently moved to his home at Gad’s Hill to avoid a scandal).

Nunhead became part of the Metropolitan Borough of Camberwell in 1900. These days, it’s described by Foxtons real estate agency as “a quiet suburb with pretty roads and period appeal”.

Treasures of London – The Abraham Tapestries, Hampton Court Palace…

Hanging in the Tudor Great Hall at Hampton Court Palace, this series of 10 huge tapestries are believed to have been commissioned by King Henry VIII and were first hung in the hall in 1546.

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This Week in London – West Ham Park celebrates its 150th; rare examples of 17th century paper-cutting; King Henry VIII jousts at Hampton Court; the collection of Elizabeth Legh; and, ‘Horrible Science’…

West Ham Park celebrates its 150th anniversary this weekend with a festival of music, food, sport, and other activities. On Saturday there will be a free, family-friendly festival with music – including appearances by Australian-born singer-songwriter Celina Sharma and singer-songwriter, Fiaa Hamilton, as well as a DJ set from Ellis – along with arts and crafts, a children’s fun fair and local food stalls. On Sunday, activities are based around the theme of ‘give it a go’ with visitors able try out various sports and health activities, including football, cricket, tennis, athletics, Tai Chi, and long-boarding. There will also be free taster sessions and opportunities to meet local sporting legends. An outdoor exhibition about the park’s history can be seen in Guildhall Yard in the City leading-up to the event after which it will be moved to Aldgate Square. West Ham Park is the largest green space in the London Borough of Newham and has been managed by the City of London Corporation since 1874. Activities on both days start at 12pm. For more, see www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/westhampark150.

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This Week in London – ‘The Tudor World’ explored; ‘Crossing Borders’ at the Horniman; and, TfL deal at the Painted Hall…

Looking out a window at Hampton Court Palace. PICTURE: Greg Willson/Unsplash

• The oldest surviving rooms at Hampton Court Palace – the Wolsey Rooms which King Henry VIII and Thomas Wolsey once used – are the location of a new display opening today exploring the early years of Henry VIII’s reign and the lives of the ‘ordinary’ men and women who shaped the Tudor dynasty. The Tudor World has, at its centre, rare surviving paintings from the Royal Collection including The Embarkation of Dover – depicting the Tudor navy – and The Field of Cloth of Gold which details Henry VIII’s summit with King Francis I of France in 1520. Also on show is a gold ring believed to have belonged to the Boleyn family, a brightly coloured silk hat linked to King Henry VIII, Wolsey’s portable sundial, a wooden chest used to hide religious contraband by Catholic priests during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I, and, an original Tudor chain pump used to help empty the Hampton Court cesspool. Among the stories of “ordinary” Tudor people being shared is that of Anne Harris, Henry VIII’s personal laundry woman who washed the bandages for his leg ulcers and, Jacques Francis, a free-diver from West Africa who was involved in the expedition to salvage guns from the sunken Mary Rose and who later became one of the first Black African voices heard in an English court, when he was called to testify in a case concerning his employer, Paulo Corsi. Included in palace admission. For more, see www.hrp.org.uk/hampton-court-palace/.

Crossing Borders, a day of free activities, performances and workshops run by local newly arrived people, will be held at the Horniman Museum Gardens in Forest Hill this Saturday. The day will feature arts and crafts workshops led by IRMO, dance performances by Miski Ayllu and the Honduran Folkloric Pride Group, the chance to learn circus skills with young people from Da’aro Youth Project and South London Refugee Association, and the opportunity to make kites with Southwark Day Centre for Asylum Seekers. The free event runs from 11am to 4pm. For more, see https://www.horniman.ac.uk/event/crossing-borders/.

Transport for London customers can save 30 per cent on entry to the Painted Hall at the Old Royal Naval College when using the TfL network until 17th November. Simply show customers show your TfL journey on the day of your visit via the TfL Oyster and Contactless app and receive the discount, taking the adult entry price, when booked online to just £11.55. For bookings, head to https://londonblog.tfl.gov.uk/2022/07/27/in-the-city/.

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Where’s London’s oldest…(surviving) street gas lamps?

One of the George IV lamps in Birdcage Walk. PICTURE: Via Google Maps

There remain some 1,300 publicly maintained gas lamps still in use in London’s streets but the oldest surviving gas lamps can be found in Birdcage Walk (along the south side of St James’s Park).

These cast iron lamps bear the insignia of King George IV who ruled from 1820 to 1830. While lamps had been installed in London since the reign of King George III (the earliest permanent placement was on Westminster Bridge in 1813), these lamps were installed during his successor’s reign.

They are among numerous Grade II-listed lamp stands on Birdcage Walk (some others are marked with thee insignia of King William IV).