Part of the deconsecrated Church of St Mary-at-Lambeth – now the home of the Garden Museum, is a tower which was first built in the 14th century.
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LondonLife – The Fourth Plinth readorned…
The 15th commission in Mayor of London’s Fourth Plinth programme has been unveiled in Trafalgar Square.
Artist Teresa Margolles’ Mil Veces un Instante (A thousand times an Instant) is made up of plaster casts of the faces of 726 trans, non-binary, and gender non-conforming people which were made in Mexico City and Juárez, Mexico; and London.
The casts – which Margolles spent more than 1,000 hours making – were created by applying plaster directly onto the faces of participants, meaning the plaster is infused with their hair and skin cells.
The next artworks to grace the Fourth Plinth will be Tschabalala Self’s Lady in Blue – a bronze work patinated with Lapis Lazuli blue which will be installed in 2026 – and Andra Ursuţa’s Untitled – a shrouded equestrian statue which will be installed from 2028.
Mil Veces un Instante replaced Samson Kambalu’s Antelope which had been on the Fourth Plinth since 2022.
For more on the Fourth Plinth programme, head to https://www.london.gov.uk/programmes-strategies/arts-and-culture/current-culture-projects/fourth-plinth-trafalgar-square. You can also download the free arts and culture app Bloomberg Connects.
A Moment in London’s History…London Mithraeum refound…
It was on 18th September, 1954 – 70 years ago this month – that archaeologists working on a site in central London discovered one of the greatest archaeological finds in London of the 20th century – a head of Mithras in the remains of a mid-3rd century Roman temple.
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10 towers with a history in London – 6. Westminster Cathedral campanile…
A well-known landmark in Westminster, the distinctive striped brick and stone campanile of Westminster Cathedral stands 284 feet or 64 metres high.
Building of a Roman Catholic cathedral in Westminster – what would be the largest in England and Wales – was the vision of Cardinal Herbert Vaughan. Construction started in 1895 and was complete eight years later. The campanile was the final part of the building’s structure to be completed.
Conscious that the Gothic Westminster Abbey only a short distance away, architect John Francis Bentley instead designed the cathedral in a neo-Byzantine style and the plans originally included two campanili or bell towers which may have been influenced by those in Venice (it was Cardinal Vaughn who famously said one campanile would be enough for him resulting in just one being built).
The 30 foot square dome-topped tower, like the rest of the building, was constructed of stripes of red brick and Portland stone which reflected existing residential buildings nearby.
Formally known as St Edward’s Tower, it contains the 55cwt St Edward’s Bell (named after St Edward the Confessor) which was a gift of Gwendoline, the Duchess of Norfolk, in 1910. It was cast at the Whitechapel Foundry and bears the inscription, “While the sound of this bell travels through the clouds, may the bands of angels pray for those assembled in thy church. St Edward, pray for England.”
Carved stone eagles surround the apex of the tower – a reference to St John the Evangelist (apparently patron saint of the architect) and the cross on top of the cupola is said to contain a fragment of the True Cross discovered by the Empress Helena in 326 AD.
The campanile famously appears at the end of Alfred Hitchcock’s 1940 thriller, Foreign Correspondent, in a scene in which the bad guy is thrown from the top.
The campanile, which has a lift to the top, is open to the public. Viewing balconies on all four sides of the tower provide 360 degree views of the surrounding city including over the stunning domes of the cathedral itself.
WHERE: The Campanile, Westminster Cathedral (nearest Tube stations are Victoria and St James’s Park); WHEN: 11am to 3:30pm Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays; COST; £6 adults; £12 families (two adults and up to four children); £3 concessions (aged 60+); WEBSITE: https://westminstercathedral.org.uk/tower-viewing-gallery-reopens/
10 towers with a history in London – 5. St Augustine’s Tower, Hackney…
This tower – said to be the oldest building in Hackney – is all that remains of a 16th century church and, as a local symbol, appears on the London Borough of Hackney’s coat-of-arms.
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This Week in London – The Olympics on the big screen; new portraits at the National Portrait Gallery; and, Charles Dickens’ pets…
• The Olympics are in full swing across the Channel in Paris and to ensure you don’t miss any of the action, big screens are showing the coverage across London. Among them are official Team GB Fanzones – there’s a list of locations on the Team GB website here. Other locations include Lyric Square in Hammersmith, Bishops Square in Spitalfields, the Old Royal Naval College grounds in Greenwich and by the Thames at London Bridge as part of the Summer by the River festival.
• New portraits of human rights campaigner Peter Tatchell and singer Sam Smith have gone on display at the National Portrait Gallery as part of its History Makers Display. The full-length portrait of Tatchell, which has been acquired by the gallery, was painted by artist Sarah Jane Moon to coincide with his 70th birthday on 25th January, 2022, and is the first portrait of Tatchell to enter the gallery’s collection.. Meanwhile, titled Gloria, the portrait of five-time Grammy Award winner Smith is the work of artistic duo Pierre Commoy and Gilles Blanchard and was created in 2023. It’s on loan from the singer. For more, see www.npg.org.uk.
• On Now: Faithful Companions: Charles Dickens & his Pets. This exhibition at the Charles Dickens Museum in Bloomsbury takes a look at the many pets – dogs, ravens, goldfinches, and cats – that lived in the home of Charles Dickens, exploring the stories of the likes of Grip the raven and Timber the dog as well as those of animals made famous in his novels. The display includes hand-written letters, family photo albums and artworks. Runs until 12th January next year. Admission charge applies. For more, head to https://dickensmuseum.com/blogs/all-events/faithful-companions-charles-dickens-his-pets.
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A Moment in London’s History – The first bananas go on sale…
It’s widely reported that the first banana went on sale in London in the mid-17th century but there is evidence bananas had been in the capital well before that date.
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This week in London – Re-live the ‘Golden Age of Piracy’; getting below the surface of the Thames; a look inside East London houses through time; and, a new public garden in the City…
• ‘The Golden Age of Piracy’ will come to life in a living history weekend this Saturday and Sunday at the Old Royal Naval College in Greenwich. With the focus on the period between 1650 and 1720 (when more than 5,000 pirates were said to have been active), visitors will learn how to separate pirate fact from fiction, enjoy songs of the sea, witness sword and cutlass fights, and hear the tale of a real 18th-century mutiny. Each day culminates with a demonstration of the firepower of pirates and marines in the arena on the lawns overlooking the River Thames. There’s also the opportunity to wander through the pirate encampment and learn about the clothes and weapons of the period, listen to some love music and sample food from the Taste of History period kitchen. Runs from 11am to 4pm on Saturday and Sunday. Admission charge applies. For more, see https://ornc.org/whats-on/golden-age-of-piracy/.
• The world of sound below the surface of the River Thames is the subject of a new contemporary art installation at the Natural History Museum which opens tomorrow. The River, composed by Norwegian sound artist Jana Winderen in collaboration with spatial audio expert Tony Myatt, uses underwater audio recordings to immerse visitors in a 360 degree audio composition which spans the river from the source by Kemble through central London and on to the sprawling estuary leading into the North Sea. The River is free to visit. Bookings, to ensure entry, can be made at https://www.nhm.ac.uk/visit.html.
• Seven new and reimagined period rooms reflecting the stories of our East London community, past, present and future, have been unveiled at the Museum of the Home in Shoreditch. Thanks to the Real Rooms project, the expanded ‘Rooms Through Time: 1878-2049’ now includes a Jewish tenement flat from 1913, an Irish couple’s house in the 1950s, LGBTQ+ renters sharing an ex-council home in the 2005, a British-Vietnamese home in 2024, and the Innovo Room of the Future, which explores real homes amid challenges such as the climate crisis and technological advances. The scope of the existing 1870s Parlour and Front Room in 1976 have also both been expanded. Entry to the permanent display is free. For more, see https://www.museumofthehome.org.uk.
• A new public garden has been opened at the intersection of Cheapside and New Change in the City of London. Formerly known as the Sunken Garden, the area has undergone a transformation and now features benches created from 150-year-old-plus granite stones salvaged from the Thames River Wall and recycled timber from fallen London Plane trees. There’s also new permeable paving which lets rain drain freely into the ground and stores it for trees to use later, reducing pressure on the sewer system while new plant species have been selected with local wildlife in mind.
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10 towers with a history in London – 1. The Bloody Tower…
Carrying rather a gruesome name, this rectangular-shaped tower sits over a gate leading from outer ward into the inner ward in the Tower of London.
The tower, which once controlled the watergate before the outer walls were constructed, was originally known as the Garden Tower due to its location adjoining the Tower Lieutenant’s Garden.
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Treasures of London – The Abraham Tapestries, Hampton Court Palace…
Hanging in the Tudor Great Hall at Hampton Court Palace, this series of 10 huge tapestries are believed to have been commissioned by King Henry VIII and were first hung in the hall in 1546.
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LondonLife – ‘Fern the Diplodicus’ takes up new post at the Natural History Museum…
‘Fern the Diplodicus’ has been unveiled at the Natural History Museum this morning, the latest addition to its transformed gardens which open to public on Thursday.
The bronze cast of the museum’s moved loved figure takes pride of place in the new Evolution Garden, which, along with the Nature Discovery Garden, sit within five acres of green space surrounding the South Kensington museum.
The Evolution Garden provides the opportunity to explore the 2.7 billion history of the planet and, as well as Fern, features a canyon clad in ancient Scottish stone, and a second dinosaur, Hypsiophodon.
The Nature Discovery Garden showcases different wildlife habitats in the UK’s urban spaces – complete with the frogs, newts, dragonflies and mandarin ducks that are already living there – and features a nw Nature Activity Centre which combines scientific facilities with a hub for school workshops and family activities.
For more, see www.nhm.ac.uk/visit/galleries-and-museum-map/our-gardens.html
London Explained – Royal Peculiars…
A Royal Peculiar is a Church of England parish that is exempt from the jurisdiction of the church diocese or province in which it sits and instead answers directly to the monarch.
The concept of the Royal Peculiar first began to emerge in Anglo-Saxon times and was developed over the following centuries.
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Lost London – St Benet Fink…
This unusually named church dates back to at least the 13th century and stood on what is now Threadneedle Street.
St Benet is a contraction of St Benedict (he who founded monastic communities in Italy in the 6th century) and this was once of four City churches dedicated to the saint before 1666. The word ‘Fink’, meanwhile, is a corruption of Finch and apparently referred to Robert Finch (or Fink) who paid for a rebuild of the church in the 13th century.
The medieval rectangular church was among those destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666. Rebuilding commenced soon after, thanks in part to a £1,000 donation from a Catholic George Holman (he was rewarded with two pews and a place in the vault). The church was completed in 1675 apparently for a cost at just over £4,000.
Designed by Sir Christopher Wren, the church – due to the irregular shape of the site after the City decided to widen Threadneedle Street, was rebuilt on a decagonal plan, over which sat a dome, with a tower at the west end topped by a bell cage over which sat a ball and cross (apparently this latter feature was unique for a Wren church).
The church survived until the mid-18th century when the Corporation of London petitioned Parliament for permission to demolish the tower of St Benet Fink in order make way for an expanded Royal Exchange (which had burned down in 1838).
Following the demolition of the tower (over which there were some protests), a new entrance was cut into the west wall of the church but it proved less than ideal and the City of London was granted permission to knock down the rest of the church which took place in 1846.
The parish was merged with that of St Peter le Poer. Proceeds of the sale of the site were used to build St Benet Fink Church, Tottenham.
The furniture was sold off and paintings of Moses and Aaron that had formed part of the altarpiece are now in the chapel of Emanuel School in Battersea.
Famous associations include John Henry Newman, the future Catholic cardinal, who was baptised in the church on 9th April, 1801.
An office block now occupies the site. A City of London blue plaque marks the site.
This Week in London – ‘The Tudor World’ explored; ‘Crossing Borders’ at the Horniman; and, TfL deal at the Painted Hall…
• The oldest surviving rooms at Hampton Court Palace – the Wolsey Rooms which King Henry VIII and Thomas Wolsey once used – are the location of a new display opening today exploring the early years of Henry VIII’s reign and the lives of the ‘ordinary’ men and women who shaped the Tudor dynasty. The Tudor World has, at its centre, rare surviving paintings from the Royal Collection including The Embarkation of Dover – depicting the Tudor navy – and The Field of Cloth of Gold which details Henry VIII’s summit with King Francis I of France in 1520. Also on show is a gold ring believed to have belonged to the Boleyn family, a brightly coloured silk hat linked to King Henry VIII, Wolsey’s portable sundial, a wooden chest used to hide religious contraband by Catholic priests during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I, and, an original Tudor chain pump used to help empty the Hampton Court cesspool. Among the stories of “ordinary” Tudor people being shared is that of Anne Harris, Henry VIII’s personal laundry woman who washed the bandages for his leg ulcers and, Jacques Francis, a free-diver from West Africa who was involved in the expedition to salvage guns from the sunken Mary Rose and who later became one of the first Black African voices heard in an English court, when he was called to testify in a case concerning his employer, Paulo Corsi. Included in palace admission. For more, see www.hrp.org.uk/hampton-court-palace/.
• Crossing Borders, a day of free activities, performances and workshops run by local newly arrived people, will be held at the Horniman Museum Gardens in Forest Hill this Saturday. The day will feature arts and crafts workshops led by IRMO, dance performances by Miski Ayllu and the Honduran Folkloric Pride Group, the chance to learn circus skills with young people from Da’aro Youth Project and South London Refugee Association, and the opportunity to make kites with Southwark Day Centre for Asylum Seekers. The free event runs from 11am to 4pm. For more, see https://www.horniman.ac.uk/event/crossing-borders/.
• Transport for London customers can save 30 per cent on entry to the Painted Hall at the Old Royal Naval College when using the TfL network until 17th November. Simply show customers show your TfL journey on the day of your visit via the TfL Oyster and Contactless app and receive the discount, taking the adult entry price, when booked online to just £11.55. For bookings, head to https://londonblog.tfl.gov.uk/2022/07/27/in-the-city/.
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10 significant (and historic) London trees…6. Mendelssohn’s Tree…
Standing on a Barbican walkway is the remnant of a tree believed to be at least 500-years-old which fell during a storm January, 1990.
The now hollowed-out stub of the beech tree (Fagus Sylvatica) had previously been located in the woodland known as Burnham Beeches, in Buckinghamshire – a woodland which was purchased by the City of London Corporation in 1880.
But what apparently sets this tree out from the others at Burnham Beeches is that it is believed famed German composer Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy (1808-1847) used to sit under its then leafy branches while staying nearby during his several visits to England.
He is said to have done so to gain inspiration for his compositions and among the works he is said to have composed while here is some “incidental music” for A Midsummer Night’s Dream (although it has been suggested this might not actually be the exact tree under which he sat).
The tree and its plaque were installed in 1993 by the Barbican Horticultural Society and unveiled by conductor and composer Carl Davis.
There is now a replacement “Mendelssohn’s Tree” in Burnham Beeches which was planted in 2005.
WHERE: Barbican, off Aldersgate St (nearest Tube station is Barbican); WHEN: Anytime; COST: Free; WEBSITE: N/A.
Famous Londoners – Mah-Jongg…
A ring-tailed lemur who famously once lived in Eltham Palace, Mah-Jongg was the much-indulged pet of rich-listers Stephen and Virginia Courtauld during the interwar period.
The couple purchased the lemur through Harrod’s then pet department soon after their marriage in 1923. He was immediately christened Mah-Jongg but commonly referred to as “Jongy”.
As well as residing with them in their Grosvenor Square, Mayfair, residence, the lemur also travelled with the Courtaulds.
This included on their luxurious motor yacht, the Virginia, on which he had a specially designed deck chair to lounge in (although Jongy, who had a reputation for being a bit nippy at times, is said to have disgraced himself at a farewell lunch for the British Arctic Air Route Expedition, of which Stephen was a sponsor, when he bit the expedition’s wireless operator, Percy Lemon, and severed an artery; it took Lemon three months to recover).
When the Courtaulds bought Eltham Palace in 1933, Mah-Jongg’s image was incorporated into the building including in a mural in the billiard room and in wooden bosses carved in his likeness in the Great Hall.
Mah-Jongg also had specially designed living quarters on the first floor with a trapdoor opening to a bamboo ladder that led down to the Flower Room on the ground floor. His cage was decorated with Madagascan rainforests by Gertrude Whinfield.
Mah-Jongg died in 1938. A memorial to him was originally installed at Eltham Palace but is now located at the Courthauld’s last home, a replica French villa called La Rochelle, in what is now Zimbabwe.
He’s also famously seen in Leonard Campbell Taylor’s 1934 portrait of the Courthaulds in the music room of their Grosvenor Square home.
A Moment in London’s History – The British Empire Exhibition…
It’s 100 years ago this year that the British Empire Exhibition was held in Wembley Park.
Located on a more than 200 acre site, the exhibition was designed to showcase the diversity and reach of the empire. It ran for two six-month long summer seasons – first opening on 23rd April, 1924, and running until 1st November that year and then reopening on 9th May, 1925, and running until 1st October.
The opening ceremony, which took place on St George’s Day, was attended by King George V and Queen Mary, and the event, in a first for a monarch, was broadcast on BBC radio.
The exhibition, which cost £12 million and attracted some 27 million visitors, featured what was said to be the largest sports arena in the world – Empire Stadium (later known as Wembley Stadium) – as well as four main pavilions dedicated to industry, engineering, the arts and the government, and a series of pavilions for 56 of the empire’s 58 territories as well as some commercial pavilions.
The latter included an Indian pavilion modelled on Jama Masjid in Delhi and the Taj Mahal in Agra, a West African pavilion designed to look like an Arab fort, a Burmese pavilion designed to look like a temple and a Maltese pavilion designed as a fortress with the entrance resembling the famed Mdina Gate.
The Empire Stadium hosted events including military tattoos and Wild West rodeos while other attractions included a lake, a 47 acre fairground, a garden, restaurants and a working replica coal mine.
Star attractions included a replica of King Tutankhamen’s tomb (housed in the fairground), a working model of Niagara Falls and a full-sized sculpture of the Prince of Wales (later Edward VIII) made of butter (both in the Canadian pavilion), a 16 foot diameter ball of wool (Australian pavilion) and dodgem cars (also in the funfair). Queen Mary’s Dollhouse – now housed at Windsor – was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens and served as a miniature showcase of the finest goods of the period.
Reinforced concrete was the main building material used in its construction, earning it the title of the first “concrete city”. The streets of the exhibition, meanwhile, were named by Rudyard Kipling.
Wembley Park Tube station, which had first opened in 1893, was rebuilt for the event and a new station – Exhibition Station (Wembley) added (it was officially closed in 1969).
While many of the buildings were dismantled after the exhibition, some survived for decades afterwards including, of course, the Empire Stadium which became Wembley Stadium and was the home of English football until replaced in 2003.
This Week in London – Royal portraits; Sir Elton’s photographic collection revealed; and, women artists…
• Royal portrait photography, from the 1920s through to today, is the subject of a new exhibition opening at the King’s Gallery at Buckingham Palace on Friday. Royal Portraits: A Century of Photography features more than 50 photographic prints, proofs and documents from the Royal Collection and the Royal Archives. Among the royal photographers whose work is on show are everyone from Cecil Beaton and Dorothy Wilding to Annie Lebovitz and Rankin as well as Lord Snowdon (born Antony Armstrong-Jones). Highlights include Beaton’s 1939 shoot featuring Queen Elizabeth, The Queen Mother, in Buckingham Palace Gardens dressed in her “White Wardrobe” by Norman Hartnell, and his original coronation portraits of Queen Elizabeth II. Admission charge applies. Runs until 6th October. For more, head here.
• More than 300 prints from the private photographic collection of Sir Elton John and David Furnish got on display at the V&A from Saturday. Fragile Beauty: Photographs from the Sir Elton John and David Furnish Collection will showcase the work of more than 140 photographers and the V&A’s largest temporary exhibition of photography to date. Photographers include everyone from Robert Mapplethorpe, Cindy Sherman, and William Eggleston to Diane Arbus, Sally Mann, Zanele Muholi, Ai Weiwei and Carrie Mae Weems and the subjects explored include fashion, reportage, celebrity, the male body, and American photography. Portraits of Marilyn Monroe, Miles Davis, and Chet Baker are among the highlights. Runs until 5th January in The Sainsbury Gallery. Admission charge applies. For more, see www.vam.ac.uk.
• An exhibition focusing on the path women have taken to being recognised as professional artists opens today at Tate Britain. Now You See Us: Women Artists in Britain 1520-1920 features more than 200 works, including oil painting, watercolour, pastel, sculpture, photography and ‘needlepainting’, created by more than 100 artists including Artemisia Gentileschi, Angelica Kauffman, Julia Margaret Cameron and Gwen John. Highlights include Tudor miniatures by Levina Teerlinc, Gentileschi’s Susanna and the Elders (1638-40), the work of 18th century needlewoman Mary Linwood, Elizabeth Butler (née Thompson)’sThe Roll Call (1874), and, the work of Laura Knight and Ethel Walker, who, on the 120th century achieved critical acclaim and membership of the Royal Academy. Runs until 13th October. Admission charge applies. Head to tate.org.uk.
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London pub signs – Horse and Groom, Belgravia…
The name of this pub, one assumes, is all about its location.
It’s located on one of Belgravia’s many cobbled mews, the back-streets or courtyards that were traditionally lined by stables and carriage houses located at the back of expansive homes. Hence the pub’s name (a name also associated with its address at 7 Groom Place).
The pub is believed to date from at least as far back as the 1850s and has apparently seen many famous faces over the years including The Beatles and, more recently, Gwyneth Paltrow and Rihanna. It also appeared in the recent Julian Fellowes’ TV drama Belgravia.
For more, see www.horseandgroombelgravia.co.uk.
Treasures of London – Russell Street gas lamps…
Recently listed as Grade II, these four gas lamps on Russell Street in Westminster were among a series of lamps installed around Covent Garden to mark the beginning of King George V’s reign.
While the columns of the lamps date from 1910, three of the lanterns – described as an ‘Upright Rochester lantern’ and manufactured by William Sugg and Company Limited – are replacements believed to have been installed around 1930. The fourth was installed following a campaign to save Covent Garden from redevelopment in the 1970s.
The newly listed lamp-posts – the first Westminster lamps to be listed in 40 years – are located outside numbers 4-6, 24, 29, and 34-43.
There are currently about 1,300 working gas lamps in London, around 270 of which are in Westminster (and about half of which are listed).
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